After yesterday's quiet afternoon, today we find ourselves full of energy and wanting to discover new places. Faced with these urges to discover the Camino del Norte, it presents us with two paths to reach Llanes, a beautiful monumental town.
Today's stage presents several alternatives, all with beautiful landscapes. The official route, which runs largely on asphalt, and the alternative route, which follows the GR route, close to the coast. Both routes converge three kilometres before the end of the stage, in Llanes.
Itinerary Colombres - Llanes
Today's stage presents us with a route of 23.2 kilometres if you follow the alternative route along the coast, which is the one that we advise in this guide.
However, the layout, both on the official variant and on the alternative, is simple and is not too uneven. The biggest drawback of this stage is the asphalt on numerous sections.
Colombres (km. 0). Beginning of stage
Practical tips for this section: At the end of this section, you will advance on the hard shoulder of the N-634 road, take great care because it is a rather dangerous section. Buen Camino!
We start the morning, heading to the Town Hall Square, where, next to the post offices, we take Calle Pío Noriega. At the end of this we turn right, by a street that leads to a roundabout.
We continue straight ahead, along Calle Badalán, which corresponds to the AS-344 road, on which we leave the town of Colombres. On a curve turning right, we leave the road, continuing straight ahead along a dirt road, which leads to the national road N-634, the Casa Junco hotel and restaurant.
We advance along the hard shoulder of the road, with caution because it is a stretch with a lot of traffic, passing through Peral (km. 1.4) and then that of La Franca (km. 3.2), both places in the council of Ribadedeva.
La Franca (km. 3,2).
Practical tips for this section: At the end of this section you will find a branch on the road that will force you to choose between the official route, with much more asphalt, or the alternative path along the coast. We prefer the latter, but you have almost six kilometres to think about it. Buen Camino!
We leave La Franca district by a local road on the left. 700 metres later, we divert along a dirt track that leads to the stone bridge that crosses the Cabra stream. Then we ascend, first on a path and then by a track, until we start again on the N-634 road, at kilometre Nº. 287.
We follow the road to the left, near the A-8 motorway, and we reach Buelna (km. 7.2). After 500 metres more on the N-634 road, we turn right to continue on the LLN-3 road, by which we reach Pendueles (km. 9).
By a small stone wall, we find a fork at which we have to decide whether to finish today's stage following the official route or taking the coastal path, which corresponds to the GR E-9, signposted with white and red markings.
The official route continues straight ahead and returns to the national road, always following the N-634 road to Vidiago. Then by roads parallel to the road or on the asphalt, it crosses Puertas de Vidiago and San Roque del Acebal, to reach Llanes.
The coastal path continues to the right, along a paved lane and runs away from traffic. We prefer this option.
Pendueles - Road fork (km. 9).
Practical tips for this section: We advise you to make a stop in Pendueles because you will not find any more services in the almost 9 kilometres that separate this place and Andrín. Buen Camino!
To follow the coastal path, we turn right and 90 metres later, at a junction in front of a house, we continue on the left, to Vidiago (km. 11.8). By a pleasant walk, we arrive at the town's beach, where we cross a small bridge over the River Novales, located on our left.
Next, we turn right, uphill, along a path with wooden railings that transforms into a track. At the cemetery, we follow a track to the right, which passes through Los Bufones de Arenillas.
A kilometre and a half later, we turn again by another track to the right and after another similar section, we turn right again to go down to the wooden bridge over the River Purón. 500 metres later, another detour to the right leads us to the centre of Andrín (km. 17.8).
Andrín (km. 17,8).
Practical tips for this section: At the end of this section you will find two options to enter Llanes, one is a little longer, but avoids the asphalt. Buen Camino!
Following the local road, we cross Andrín and at the exit we turn almost 180 degrees to the right, taking a street that, uphill, flows onto the LLN-2 road.
We follow the path of the road to the right, by a pedestrian lane, and reach the la Boriza viewpoint, from where we can enjoy beautiful views over the beaches and cliffs. In the distance, we see our destiny today, Llanes.
From this viewpoint, we take a path that, 200 metres later, returns us to the same road, where we find two possible paths to reach Llanes.
One continues along a track to the left of the road, which runs uphill, and is 800 metres longer. The other alternative follows the route to Llanes.
Both alternatives go into Llanes, through La Portilla.
Llanes (km. 23,2). End of stage
Practical tips for this section: Llanes awaits us with many places to visit and a coast in front on which to relax. See you tomorrow!
Upon your arrival in the town, you can quickly perceive that it is a place with a strong fishing tradition but also with an important presence of tourism. The village of Llanes has many charms to discover.
Some of its attractions are the remains of its medieval wall and the Torreón, as well as various examples of civil architecture such as la Casa de Los Leones, the Casino, la Casa de Rivero, Casa de la Cultura, Palacio del Conde de la Vega del Sella, Torrexón de la Posada y el Palacio de Los Duques.
If you want to get closer to its fishing culture, you can visit the fishing port, where you will find the sculpture of los Cubos de la Memoria, and visit La Rula, one of the main points of distribution of fish throughout Asturias. Also, and if you want to walk, you can visit the Bolado Cave or the Llanes Lighthouse.
Regarding religious architecture, in the town you can visit the Basilica of Santa Maria de Concejo, the Chapel de la Magdalena, famous for its festivals, the Convent of Las Monjas Agustinas Recoletos, the Chapel of Cristo del Camino and the Monastery of San Salvador de Celorio.
Comments Colombres - Llanes
Here are some tips for you to complete today's stage without difficulty and we suggest some dishes of Asturian gastronomy.
Precautions stage Colombres - Llanes
At the exit of Colombres, we go to La Franca following the route of the national N-634 road. It is a road with a lot of traffic, so it is advisable not to encroach the road, always walking in single file, and be cautious in that section.
In the town of Pendueles you can follow two possible paths to Llanes. The most beautiful is the one that runs along the coast, but it is not the official layout. To follow the official pilgrim path, you must continue along the road.
If you decide to follow the coastal route, you should keep in mind that between Pendueles and Andrín you will not find any services, so it is important to carry plenty of water and something to eat in your backpack for the route, especially in the summer months.
Food stage Colombres - Llanes
Today you can enjoy the following regional dishes.
Fabada (Bean stew)
Velvet swim crabs
Broad green beans
Mixed Asturian charcuterie
Fried corn bread with Cabrales cheese
Cider, in Asturias, you can’t be without cider
What to do Colombres - Llanes
Here's some information about places you can visit in Llanes.
Llanes is a fishing village, capital of the municipality of the same name. The village, of almost 14,000 inhabitants, is a great tourist attraction given the idyllic landscapes that make up the Cantabrian Sea, entering many areas of the town, and its monumental heritage.
During the centuries, the village lived from fishing for whales, sardines, conger eels, etc., but in the 19th century, the French occupation ended this activity, forcing many locals to emigrate to America.
The money they made on the new continent was vital for the development of the town, since, on their return, they helped to pay for much of the infrastructure of the town, such as schools, hospitals, street lighting, among other facilities.
Today, the village bases its economy on fishing and tourism. In its streets you can visit remains of the medieval wall and the Torreón, as well as various examples of civil architecture such as la Casa de los Leones, the Casino, Casa de Rivero, Casa de la Cultura, Palacio del Conde de la Vega del Sella, Torrexón de la Posada and Palacio de los Duques.
It is worth the visit to the fishing port, where you can see the sculpture of Los Cubos de la Memoria and visit La Rula, a fish market auction. Also, after a short walk, you can visit the Bolado Cave or the Llanes Lighthouse.
Regarding religious architecture, the Basílica of Santa María de Concejo, The Chapel of la Magdalena, famous for its festivals, the Convent of the Monjas Agustinas Recoletas, Chapel of Cristo del Camino and the Monastery of San Salvador de Celorio all stand out.
La muralla de Llanes
The wall of Llanes dates back to the 13th century, when the town obtained the Charter of Independence, although its works lasted until the 15th century and was renovated several times over time.
In 1870 much of the wall was demolished in order to expand the village. Originally the wall had four gates, and walls that were a metre and a half wide and more than 800 metres long.
Currently, the tower is preserved in the southern area, known as Torreón, and approximately three hundred metres from the course, on the north side.
It is the best place to appreciate Sabión Beach. It can also be seen on the pavement of the Plaza de Santa Ana, where the Puerta de San Nicolás was located.
Torreón de Llanes dates back to the 13th century and was part of the town's medieval wall. It was originally used as a defence element and later as a prison.
It currently houses the Tourist Office headquarters. In 1876 it was declared a National Monument.
Basílica de Santa María de Concejo
The Basilica of Santa Maria de Concejo is located in the town of Llanes. It is a Gothic-style temple with a Romanesque façade, owned by the village and not the clergy, as it was the locals themselves who paid for its construction.
As for the date of its construction, it is not clear. On the one hand, theory indicates that, based on the two-part window located on the western façade, that its construction was carried out between the 13th and 14th centuries.
On the other hand, there are experts who indicate that its construction dates back to the middle of the 15th century, being inaugurated in the year 1480, without the works having been completed.
The basilica consists of three naves covered with cross vaults that rest on ogival arches.
Inside the temple, you can see the main altarpiece, from the 16th century, in which Mary's life is depicted through paintings and sculptures, typical of that of the first renaissance.
You can also admire the Trinity Chapel or Juan Pariente, located to the left of the Main Chapel.
Cubos de la Memoria
Cubos de la Memoria is a work located in the fishing port of the town of Llanes, carried out by the painter and sculptor, Agustín Ibarrola, a native of Bilbao.
According to the artist, who began working on the sculpture in 2001, it was one of the biggest challenges he had faced, as the project involved transforming the harbour breakwater into an immense polychrome sculpture with various figures.
Capilla de la Magdalena
The Magdalena Chapel is located in the historic centre of Llanes and dates from the 13th century, although it has been rebuilt on several occasions. It is currently formed by a single nave with a pointed arched door.
The chapel is one of the main religious and festive references in the fishing village. In it, the locals celebrate, in summer, The Magdalena, a festival declared as of Tourist Interest.
Casa de los Leones
Casa de Los Leones is located in the village of Llanes. It is an Indian building from 1906, built by Manuel García, who emigrated to Puebla, Mexico, to work in the textile trade.
There he married Flor Valladie, which is why the house is also known as Villa Flora.
Its structure consists of a single body of two floors and three attics. The main façade features a portico and a staircase with a stone lion on each side, which is why the house is also known as the House of the Lions.
Casa de Rivero
Casa de Rivero is located in the town of Llanes. It is a medieval-style building dating back to 1656, although its top floor, the balconies and some of the access gates were added in the 18th century.
The house is built in irregular masonry, except for the spans and corners. Its structure consists of two bodies, joined by an alley. In the main part, the cellars, kitchens and chapel are all located.
From its exterior, stands out the door of half-point door located at one end of its façade and the coat of arms of the family stand out.
The Llanes Casino was built, by Juan Alvarez Mendoza, in 1909. It is currently considered one of the most emblematic buildings of the town, for its colourful decoration. The property is surrounded by the Town Hall and the medieval tower.
Convento de las Monjas Agustinas Recoletas
The Convent of the Agustinas Recoletas is located outside the walls of Llanes. Its construction dates from the 17th century.
Throughout history, the facilities have had various uses, in the early 19th century it was used by French troops, then, after its confiscation, the property housed the College of the Incarnation.
Today, a part of the convent has been lost, as it was destined for plot to build the premises of a hotel.
However, the doorway and church façades are still preserved, with a magnificent Baroque-style door. The chapel remains in good condition and now functions as a dining room.
The Bolado Cave is a cavity easily accessible from Llanes. Inside it, you can see a wide variety of crystals and paintings of archaeological interest, among which the drawing of a bull stands out.
El Puerto Pesquero
The Llanes Fishing and Sports Port was built in 1991, with the intention of bringing together the fishing sector and the tourism sector in the same space.
To this end, a new breakwater was added, surrounded by two huge concrete blocks, which protect the structure from bad weather. The width of the port varies between 8 and 65 metres.
Ermita de Cristo del Camino
The Chapel of Christ of the Way stands at the foot of the Camino de Santiago as it passes through the village of Llanes. The temple dates back to 1595 but was later rebuilt after several fires.
The small chapel is the work of Pedro Sánchez de Llanes. Today it is unused, although it is a place very frequented by pilgrims.
Faro de Llanes
The Llanes Lighthouse was built in the late 19th century, on San Antón Point. In 1920 it was electrified.
Its structure consists of an octagonal floor and stands out for its white colour, visible at a great distance. From this place, you can enjoy magnificent views of Puerto Chico Beach.
Casa de la Cultura
The Casa de la Cultura in Llanes is located in the former residence of the politician José Posada Herrera.
In 1987, the Cultural House was installed in the building and, at present, concerts, exhibitions and workshops are held, among other cultural activities.
Hours: Closes on Sundays. Monday to Friday (from 17:30 to 21:00), Saturdays (
11:00 to 13:00 and 17:00 to 21:00).
La Rula is a building located in Llanes fish market, in the heart of the fishing port. The place is considered the most important point of Eastern Asturias in the sale and distribution of fish.
In the Rula, an auction system is practised, in which prices are pushed downwards and the first person to accept the offer, takes it.
Hours: Open daily. From 10:00 to 14:00 and from 16:00 to 20:00.
Monasterio de San Salvador de Celorio
The Monastery of San Salvador de Celorio is located in the town of Llanes. Its construction was carried out in 1107 and was the work of Alfonso Suárez and his wife Cristilde, in whose honour, a commemorative plaque was placed.
Today there is little left of the old monastery, although you can still see the remains of the medieval tower of the chancel, square plan, and the cover at the foot of the temple, with typical late Romanesque elements.
The monastic site consists of a parish church, the house of retreat for the Society of Jesus and the community of religious slaves of Christ the King.
The Church, of great dimensions, was renovated in 1679. The temple consists of a single nave covered with a barrel vault with lunettes.
Palacio del Conde de la Vega del Sella
The Palacio del Conde de la Vega del Sella is located in the town of Llanes. Its construction was carried out between the 17th and 18th centuries, although it underwent several renovations during the following two centuries.
From its primitive construction, you can still see the medieval Aguilar de San Jorge Tower, from which the walls are preserved.
The building has a simple façade, with a modernist appearance, and symmetrical distribution of its spans. On the main door, you can see the coats of arms of the Duke of Estrada lineage, with a crowned two-headed eagle.
The palace is located on a plot of approximately 11 hectares, of which 2,000 square metres constitute a magnificent garden, designed by the Frenchman Ducasse. In the garden, you can see various tree species, following the wishes of the Count of La Vega.
Palacio de los Duques de Estrada
The Palace of the Dukes of Estrada is located in the village of Llanes. The building was left empty and abandoned after the attacks of the Napoleonic invasion in 1809.
The construction has very different façades to be found there. The main façade is characterized by its austerity, while the east side is adorned with arches and the one at the southern end has a side door.
Torrexón de la Posada
The Torrexón de la Posada is located on the estate where the Palace of Posada Cortés stands, in the town of Llanes. It is a fortress house built between the 14th and 15th centuries and formed by a rectangular floor plan and a half-point arch, which gives access to the interior.
The north side of the building has the largest number of spans. On the upper floor of this side, you can see three spans, in Gothic style, which are closed at the top by pointed arches.