After our visit to the medieval city of Burgos, it is time to continue on the Camino de Santiago. If you have taken a few days to visit the city and enjoy its food, you will find yourself full of energy and eager to get back on the Camino.
Many pilgrims who don’t have a whole lot of time choose this stage as their starting point for the Camino de Santiago, people who have decided to spend their fifteen days of holiday on the French Way. Welcome everyone!
Our departure from Burgos, despite it being a city, is relatively fast. We will then head into the typical Castilian landscape, with long straight sections surrounded by grain fields.
Today’s stage is devoid of any shade and our only refuge from the exhausting Castile sun will be when we arrive at the various towns, which can be especially tough if we are doing the French Way in summer.
Itinerary Burgos - Hornillos del Camino
Today’s stage is characterised by the great plains and small medieval towns. We leave behind the lively city of Burgos and prepare to travel many kilometres in solitude.
Burgos (Km. 0). Beggining of stage
Practical tips for this stage: When leaving Burgos, you will find several places where you can have an energising breakfast before facing today’s stage. Buen Camino!
We leave the city of Burgos next to the cathedral, taking Fernán González street. We walk towards the San Martín gateway and once we’ve passed the arch, we turn left to go down the stairs on Emperador street.
A little further on, we take Villalón street on the left, which reaches the Paseo de la Isla walkway. We cross the Arlanzón River and turn right following the course of the river. Continuing straight, next to the N-120 road along Palencia avenue, José María Villacián Rebollo avenue and Villadiego street, we will arrive at the turnoff that is marked as “Lis Guindales. Viviero Forestal” (km 3).
We follow the turnoff to the right and continue straight on Benito Pérez Galdós street. The city ends at the nursery gate and the pavement turns into a trail. The Jacobean route does not enter the town of Villabilla, but instead continues on the right to cross the Molinar stream (km 5.9).
On the path, we cross over the ring road on a bridge and reach the Arlanzón viaduct, part of the A-231 motorway, which we pass underneath (km 8.6). We cross the river and continue along a path, parallel to the road, which takes us to Tardajos, where we can visit the church of La Asunción de Nuestra Señora.
Tardajos (Km. 10,8)
Practical tips for this section: There is a popular saying for the section from Tardajos to Rabé de las Calzadas that goes: “From Rabé to Tardajos you will not lack work; from Tardajos to Rabé, free us, Lord.” This is a reflection of the proximity between both towns and how muddy the path often is due to the flooding of the Urbel River. Buen Camino!
We pass through the town on Mediodía street, Leandro Mayoral square and Real Poniente street. We take the road, passing the Urbel River, to reach the nearby Rabé de las Calzadas (km 12.6). At the entrance to the town, we will find the Palaciega Tower. We pass the fountain on Santa Marina street until reaching the Francisco the Riberas square.
In the town we can visit the church of La Marina and the hermitage of La Virgen del Monasterio.
We leave the town on Baldomero Pampliega street and enter the Castilian plateau. What lies ahead of us are long, straight sections at more than 800 metres above sea level, which pass through a solitary landscape, surrounded by large grain fields. Our only company in this section will be our shadow and some birds such as partridges or larks.
Three kilometres from Rabé de las Calzadas, on the right, we will find the Praotorre fountain, where there are some tables where you can take a rest (km 15.4). Then the Jacobean route continues until reaching a slight hill that leads to the valley where Hornillos del Camino and its parish church of San Román are located.
Hornillos del Camino (Km. 21). End of stage
Practical tips for this section: In this town you will find all the necessary amenities and services, take advantage of the afternoon to regain your strength. See you tomorrow!
Hornillos del Camino is a quiet town that invites us to enjoy the peace and quiet of Castile, in contrast to our busy schedule when we stayed in Burgos. Today’s stage is short, but we shouldn’t feel rushed to get to our final destination, since today it’s the journey that really matters.
If you decide to extend the stage, you can continue to Arroyo San Bol, located 5.2 kilometres away, where you’ll find a humble pilgrim shelter, or to Hontanas, which is another ten kilometres.
Comments Burgos - Hornillos del Camino
The biggest difficulty during today’s stage is the weather. The scorching sun in summer and terrible cold in winter. We’ve provided some recommendations below for today’s stage as well as some culinary suggestions to try during the stage.
How to get to Burgos
Although Burgos has a civilian airport, only private flights and charters are available, therefore it is not possible to arrive by plane. If you are coming from outside of Spain, it is best to fly to Madrid or another of the main Spanish cities and then travel from there to Burgos.
The city can be reached by train, bus or private vehicle. The right option for you will depend on your place of origin.
If you prefer, you can contact us and we will help you manage all the logistics of the Camino de Santiago: transfers, accommodation and guide (optional).
Precautions stage Burgos - Hornillos del Camino
You won’t find any shade to hide you from the sun today, except in the towns you’ll encounter along the way. Try to avoid walking during the hottest times of day, especially if you are doing the French Way in summer. During the winter, the Castilian plateau is usually very cold, so remember to take warm clothes and a raincoat with you.
People with reduced mobility will find some of the stretches to be difficult. They should proceed with caution until reaching Rabé de las Calzadas, and then take an alternative mode of transport from this town, since the Camino route may not be accessible enough for them.
The rockiness of the path also makes things difficult for those travelling the Camino de Santiago by bicycle, forcing them to walk with their bike in some sections.
Food stage Burgos - Hornillos del Camino
We’re not far enough from Burgos to enjoy some of their blood sausage or local cheeses, do it before it’s too late!
If it’s winter or, if you’re feeling really brave in summer, we recommend trying the traditional soups and stews, which include the “olla podrida” (rotten pot) made with beans, blood sausage, chorizo and bacon.
What to do stage Burgos - Hornillos del Camino
We will pass through small towns in this stage. Below we’ve provided some information on each of them, as well as the most important attractions in each place.
The town of Tardajos has an area of 13 square kilometres and 794 inhabitants. The town was built on Roman settlements next to the Roman road that connected Clunia (Coruña del Conde) with Juliobriga (Reinosa).
In the year 882, the town was repopulated, along with other towns on the banks of the Arlanzón River. The town is divided into two districts, each of which has a church, namely the church of Santa María and the church of La Magdalena. You can also visit the church of La Asunción de Nuestra Señora.
The municipality also has the Deobrigula archaeological site, which has been declared a Spanish Good of Cultural Interest. The original nucleus was located in El Castro, where evidence has been found that shows that the origin of the town goes all the way back to the Celtic period, in the 8th century B.C.
Church of La Asunción de Nuestra Señora
The church of La Asunción de Nuestra Señora is located on a small hill in the town of Tardajos. The building dates back to the 13th and 16h century and combines Gothic and Baroque styles, with medieval elements.
The structure is formed by two very tall naves in a Gothic style, with a transept and a square chevet, where Gothic windows can be seen. The medieval tower is located next to the transept. The portal, from the 18th century, is formed by a semicircular arch with pilasters and a niche.
The church was built on the site of the Tardajos castle, therefore it is very likely that its tower is a remnant of the old fortress.
Rabé de las Calzadas
Rabé de las Calzadas is a municipality with a total area of 10 square kilometres and 214 inhabitants. In the town you can visit the parish church of Santa Marina, the hermitage of La Virgen del Monasterio and the Conde de Villariezo palace.
The town has some remarkable stone houses that preserve the traditional character of the architecture in the area. The town is quiet and can feel almost deserted.
Conde de Villariezo Palace
The Conde de Villariezo Palace was built at the entrance to Rabé de las Calzadas, in the 17th century. It is also known as the Palaciega Tower. Originally, the palace was owned by the Countess of Montalvo, but it was then acquired by Diego de Riaño, Count of Villariezo.
The building is of an impressive size, with its main façade built in ashlar masonry. The access door to the building is flanked by two towers, and on its lintel you can see the Count of Villariezo’s coat of arms.
Between both towers there is an extensive garden, although it is currently divided into several plots that belong to different owners. Inside the building, you can observe various paintings on the wall.
Hermitage of La Virgen del Monasterio
The hermitage of La Virgen del Monasterio is located in Rabé de las Calzadas, right on the French Way. It was built in the 16th century in a Renaissance style. In the past there was a monastery where the hermitage now stands, which is why it is currently dedicated to the Virgen “of the Monastery”.
Hornillos del Camino
Hornillos del Camino is a municipality with an area of 14 square kilometres, however it has just over 50 inhabitants. On Real street, you can find sturdy, two-storey houses made of stone. You can also visit the parish church of San Román.
The first written records about the town go back to the 9th century, at which time the town was called Forniellos, which are small ovens used to bake tiles in. The town was donated to the French monastery of San Dionisio in 1156 by Fernando VII, who was nicknamed the Emperor.
Parish Church of San Román
The parish church of Román is located in Hornillos del Camino and is the only church that is still standing in the municipality. It was built in the 16th century in a Gothic style, with a hall church design.
Mass hours: From September to June, on holidays (11:00 am).
Services Burgos - Hornillos del Camino
Services stage from Burgos to Hornillos del Camino