After the short and quiet stage yesterday, today we expect another short but interesting day.
Let’s go on the Camino Portugues!
An interesting stage on a cultural level, both for the beautiful town of São Pedro de Rates and for the city of Barcelos. Today we expect bridges, legends and a multitude of rural centres that will continually come across our path.
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Itinerary stage Arcos – Barcelos
We are on an intermediate stage. It is not short, nor long, almost 20 kilometres separate us from the emblematic Barcelos. The right distance to enjoy a day of walking and have enough time to visit the new city that welcomes us.
Arcos (Km. 0). Beginning of stage
Practical tips for this section: Today you can decide whether to have breakfast in Arcos or to walk for almost an hour and have breakfast in the beautiful town of São Pedro de Rates. Buen Camino!
We start today with the church, leaving it on the right and passing in front of a bar, to head to the exit of the village. At the factory that we will find on our route, we take a detour to the right to reach the N206 road (km. 1.9)
We take the road to the left and follow it for 300 metres, to divert then onto a small road to the right, which leads us to the small village of Borgonha. We cross the villa and arrive at the Romanesque Church of São Pedro de Rates (km. 3.9).
São Pedro de Rates (Km. 3,9)
Practical tips for this section: Today’s stage allows you to stop to enjoy the beautiful town of São Pedro de Rates, do not hurry to arrive. Buen Camino!
From the church we head to the upper part of the village, passing by the Fonte de São Pedro, the Pilgrim’s Hostel and the Santo António Chapel. Without changing direction, we take a road down that turns into a dirt track.
We advance for more than an hour along it, enjoying the pleasant rural environment, until reaching again the road (N306) (km. 9.3), which we continue to the left until Pedra Furada, passing by its church (km. 10.6).
We’re continuing on the N306, the pilgrim path veers to the left for a moment but returns immediately to the national road. We pass in front of the restaurant and Pedra Furada Hostel (km. 11.6) and continue along the road until we find a cobbled street that deviates to the left (km. 13.3), to arrive in Pereira (Barcelos).
Pereira (Barcelos) (Km. 14,1)
Practical tips for this section: In this section, you will go through various rural centres, be attentive because you could come across some surprises, the locals are very hospitable. Buen Camino!
We cross Pereira and continue to the small neighbouring centre: Pedrego and Pontegãos. The route of the Camino de Santiago leads us to cross the motorway A11 by an underpass (km. 15.3) and shortly after we pass by the Church of Carvalhal (km. 16.3).
Then the pilgrim path forces us to turn left and continue through small rural centres such as Porto Moreira, Santa Cruz and Mereces. After this last village, we return to the road, which we continue to the right until reaching the incorporation lane of the N103.
We cross the national road by a pedestrian underpass, located on our right (km. 18.4). We continue to the right, to lead us to the N205, which in this section is named Rua Celestino Costa. We entered Barcelinhos on this road. (km. 19.4).
We take a street on the left that leads us to the medieval bridge that crosses the River Cávado. We go over it and we enter our destination today, Barcelos.
Barcelos (Km. 26). End of stage
Practical tips for this section: The overwhelming traffic in Barcelos can be unkind but do not get carried away by your first impressions, Barcelos is a locality with a lot of tradition on the Camino Portugues, as testified by the famous legend of the rooster. See you tomorrow!
The city of Barcelos in addition to having many historical points of interest is the scene of one of the most famous legends of the Camino de Santiago, on its tour of Portugal. You cannot leave the city without discovering the legend of the Gallo de Barcelos!
The afternoon you can go to visit the many temples that are distributed around the city, such as the Temple of Bom Jesus da Cruz, da Misericórdia, the Main Church, Nossa Senhora do Terço, the São Francisco Chapel, do Lopes de Amorin or Sao Bento da Buraquinha.
However, make sure you visit the Church of Santo António, next to the community of Capuchin Monks, before 19.00h, since every day at the end of the mass, the Blessing of the Pilgrim is celebrated.
You can also visit other places such as the Torre do Porta Nova, the Teatro Gil Vicente, Quinta de Paços, the Pelourinho, Pazo dos Condes de Barcelos, the monument to Don António Barroso, the Municipal Art Gallery or the Câmara Municipal.
If you prefer open spaces, you can stroll through the emblematic streets of Rúa Don António Barroso or Largo do Apoio, or encounter nature in Monte da Franquiera or Jardin das Baroques.
Those who have time can also take advantage of the proximity of the monumental city of Braga to visit, as it is located only 20 kilometres from Barcelos. In that case, you have two options, return to Barcelos to continue the Camino Portugués from here or take the alternative path that passes through Braga and joins the official route in the next stage, in Ponte da Lima.
Comments stage Arcos – Barcelos
Here are some recommendations and gastronomic suggestions for today’s stage.
Precautions stage Arcos – Barcelos
Today’s day does not imply any difficulty. The layout is well signposted and lacks any great unevenness.
Gastronomy stage Arcos – Barcelos
In today’s stage, we will begin to find typical dishes of the gastronomy from Northern Portugal. Here are some suggestions.
- Rojões. This dish is made with macerated pork with vinho verde, garlic and spices. Then the pig’s blood is added and fried.
- Sarrabulho potatoes. A potato stew made with pig’s blood, chicken meat, chorizo and ham.
- The Roasted Barcelos Chicken is a typical dish of the city. Its elaboration and the ingredients used in it vary considerably from one restaurant to another.
- Vinho Verde. It is a wine, with a denomination of origin, made with newly collected grapes that have hardly matured.
- Barcelos Pastries. Sweets excel in the locality, some examples are the Queijadinhas, candies with almond, candied fruits and cheese, or doces de romaria and Sonhos.
Services stage Arcos – Barcelos
Meet the main health care services, cafes, ATMs, restaurants and are in this stage of the Portuguese Way of St. James.
Map stage Arcos – Barcelos
Consult the map with the route, points and towns along the stage.
Profile stage Arcos – Barcelos
Consult the profile of the stage: altitude and degree of difficulty of each section.
What to do stage Arcos – Barcelos
Today’s day has many places of cultural interest, now we will give you details about each one of them.
Iglesia de São Pedro de Rates
The Church of São Pedro de Rates is considered one of the most emblematic Romanesque religious buildings in Portugal. The origin of the temple dates back to the end of the 11th century.
The church, with a Latin cross floor, is built in granite and has three naves, separated by four uneven sections. The temple is covered in wood.
The most outstanding elements are its capitals, which have a rich sculptural decoration, each one being unique. Some are ornamented with vegetal motifs, and on others, mythological beings and figures of apostles are represented.
The medieval bridge that connects Barcelos with Barcelinhos was repaired in the early 14th century, giving it a gothic look. The construction is equipped with various reinforced elements that allow it to balance the weights and thus resist the passage of the currents.
Barcelos is a Parish in the Council of the same name, from the district of Braga. The town has more than 120,000 inhabitants.
The city is famous for the rich number of monuments that it houses and the beautiful scenery that surrounds it. It is also very popular for being the origin of one of the hallmarks of the country, the Gallo de Cresta Colorida, whose origin goes back to a legend linked to the Camino de Santiago.
In the locality you can visit various religious temples such as the Church of Santo António, the Temple of Bom Jesus da Cruz, the Misericórdia, the Main Church, Nossa Senhora do Terço, the Chapel of São Francisco, do Lopes de Amorin or Sao Bento da Buraquinha.
Although it also has other places of historical interest such as the Torre do Porta Nova, the Teatro Gil Vicente, Quinta de Paços, the Pelourinho, Pazo dos Condes de Barcelos, the monument to Don António Barroso, the Municipal Art gallery or the Câmara Municipal.
The emblematic streets of Rúa Don António Barroso or Largo do Apoio are also essential visits, as well as the Monte da Franqueira or the Jardin das Barrocas.
Torre da Porta Nova
Torre da Porta Nova is part of the 15th-century wall of Barcelos. The tower operated from the 17th century to 1932 as a prison. At present, the building houses the Interpretation Centre of the Galo e da Cidade de Barcelos, inaugurated in 2013.
Templo do Bom Jesus da Cruz
The Temple of Bom Jesus da Cruz is located in the city of Barcelos. The origin of the temple dates back to December 1504, when, as they say, a miraculous cross of black land appeared on the soil of the Campo da Feira.
The present temple was inaugurated in 1710. Its structure is shaped like a Greek cross and is covered by a dome. Each year, the temple functions as the central balcony of the traditional Festa das Cruzes.
Teatro Gil Vicente
The Teatro Gil Vicente is located in the city of Barcelos. Its construction took place at the end of the 19th century and its façade is of neoclassical style. However, the changes that were made later to adapt it to the needs of the current theatre functions have made it a very modern building.
Timetable: Monday to Friday (from 9:00 to 12:00 and from 13:30 to 18:00).
Rúa Don António Barroso
Rua Don António Barroso is one of the oldest streets in the historic centre of Barcelos. It is a lively street, full of shops and in which there are a large number of buildings of architectural interest, such as Da Caixa Geral de Depositos or the house of Mathias Gonçalves da Cruz, etc.
Quinta de Pacos
Quinta de Paços is located in Barcelos and has more than 500 years of history, it has been in operation now for fifteen generations of the same family. The house is made up of 200 hectares divided into different areas, which constitute a family wine company.
The Pelourinho de Barcelos, also known as the Pillory, was constructed between the late 15th and early 16th century and has a Gothic style. Its structure is formed by a staggered hexagonal base and in the upper part, it presents the form of a shrine.
Pazo dos Condes de Barcelos
The Pazo dos Condes de Barcelos was built during the first half of the 15th century, by order of Don Alfonso, 8th Earl of Barcelos and first Duke of Bragança. Since the beginning of the 20th century, the building has housed the Archaeological Museum, where the famous El Crucero do Galo is guarded.
This cross refers to the miracles of San Tiago and the famous legend that happened in the city, popularly known as the Legend of the Rooster.
Monumento a Don António Barroso
Don António Barroso’s monument is located opposite the City Hall and the Main Church in Barcelos. The monument was erected in 1931 in honour of the missionary, a local man, for his work preaching in Africa. The work is made in bronze and is attributed to the architect Marqués da Silva and the sculptor Sousa Caldas.
Monte da Franqueira
Monte da Franqueira is considered the sacred mountain by the residents of Barcelos. The space begins from the maritime coast of Esposende to Póvoa de Varzim.
From its viewpoint you can see the course of the River Cávado, the Monte do Meiro and do Bom Jesus in Braga and the small Sierras do Gerês to the east, as well as enjoy splendid views of Barcelos and its surroundings.
This natural area has an abundant cultural, religious, archaeological and ethnographic heritage. The highlight is the Convento do Calvário do Bom Jesus da Franqueira, a Fonte da Vida, Castro e Castelo de Faria, Moinho de Vento, Escadóiro e Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Franqueira.
The Misericordia building
The Misericórdia building was the old Convent dos Capuchos. The church in this convent had valuable Baroque architecture, but a fire, in the 19th century, devastated much of its elements. Inside the building, you can visit an image of Santa Maria from the 16th century.
Jardín das Barrocas
The Jardin das Barrocas, or also known as Passeio dos Alsentos ou das Obras, is located in Barcelos. It is a space designed in the 18th century, under a provincial rococo style, which has small and original gardens full of bright colours.
The Main Church of Barcelos dates from the second half of the 14th century. Its construction was carried out by order of Don Pedro, the third Count of Barcelos, whose weapons are engraved in the archivolts of the main portal.
It is a temple in which the transition from Romanesque to Gothic is appreciated. Throughout the 16th and 18th centuries, it underwent many renovations, in which the tower is located in the south facade was included.
Iglesia de Santo António
The Church of Santo António is located in the city of Barcelos. Its construction was carried out in the 1930s, reusing the materials of the Church dos Terceiros, which had been demolished. Since 1934, the Franciscan Capuchin Order has been installed in the temple.
Iglesia de Nossa Senhora do Terço
The Church of Nossa Senhora do Terço, located in Barcelos, is part of the old Convent of Benedictine Nuns and dates from the early 18th century. The highlight of the temple is the blue and white tile panels from1713, which depict scenes of the life of San Bento and moralizing emblems with an excellent golden carving.
Capilla de São Francisco
The Chapel of São Francisco is a small building located in the street that bears the same name, in the city of Barcelos. It has a façade with a 14th-century portico. At the top left stands the belfry built of a single body.
Galería Municipal de Arte
The Barcelos Municipal Art Gallery is designed to promote art in its various forms. It has a space dedicated to the reflection and the realization of diverse exhibitions (painting, photography, sculpture, etc.) of both local and national artists.
Opening hours: Open every day (from 9:00 to 12:30 and from 14:00 to 18:00).
Edificio da Câmara Municipal
The Câmara Municipal de Barcelos emerged from a set of renovations and extensions that were made from the nucleus of the old house of the Town Hall. The ensemble includes the old Hospital do Espírito Santo, which assisted the pilgrims, and the Chapel of Santa Maria, both from the 14th century.
Timetable: Closes Saturdays and Sundays. Open from Monday to Friday (from 9:00 to 17:00).
Capilla dos Lopes de Amorim
The Lopes de Amorim Chapel is located in Rua San Francisco de Barcelos. It is a palatial building, from the 18th century, in neoclassical style. The chapel stands out for its floral decoration, especially the one located in the windows on the first floor, in which are represented the pilgrim’s scallops.
Capilla de São Bento da Buraquinha
The chapel of São Bento da Buraquinha is located at the end of Rua Cândido dos Reis de Barcelos and dates from the 17th century. The chapel has reformed walls with the exception of the corners, which have masonry blocks. The ornamentation presented by the temple is very simple and with geometric shapes.
Largo do Apoio
Largo do Apoio is the first street of the Borough of Barcelos and, at present, it recalls the medieval urbanism that the city had. In the middle of the street, you can visit a Renaissance-style cross, attributed to João Lopes. The House dos Limonas, Casa do Alferes Barcelense and Casa do Santo Condestável Don Nuno Álvares Pereira are located nearby.
La leyenda de gallo de Barcelos
An episode popularly known in the city of Barcelos, is the case of the miracle of the rooster. According to the legend, a Galician pilgrim started the Camino de Santiago from Barcelos, where he was accused of stealing the money from a landowner and sentenced to the gallows.
Before he was hanged, the pilgrim requested as his last request, to see the judge. At the pilgrim’s arrival, the judge was eating a roast chicken. The condemned man told the judge that he was not guilty of the crime he was accused of and that, as proof of this, the rooster who was eating would get up and sing.
The judge paid no attention to the pilgrim’s words and placed the plate on the side of the table. However, at the same instant the pilgrim was being hanged, the judge saw the rooster rise from his plate and sing.
Upon being aware of his error, the judge ran to the gallows to try to prevent the pilgrim from being hanged unfairly. When he arrived at the gallows, he discovered that the condemned man was still alive due to a badly-tied knot.
They say that years after being saved from the gallows, the pilgrim returned to Barcelos to spit on the cross of the Lord of the Rooster, which is now preserved in the Archaeological Museum.