We hope that the climb to Puerto de Palo hasn’t left your ankles and knees with any after effects. Today we have a much more relaxed stage, the antithesis of the previous one.
Today’s stage is characterized by its steep descent and its solitude, being almost devoid of any intermediate populations. The main protagonist on today’s route will be the Salime Reservoir, fed by the River Navia.
The construction of this dam completely changed the terrain in the area and for its installation it was necessary to flood various inhabited areas. The route today concludes in Grandas de Salime, the last Asturian municipality on the Camino Primitivo.
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Itinerary stage Berducedo – Grandas de Salime
The route on this stage has 21.2 kilometres of travel, of which, much of them are made in descent. Two small climbs will change the feeling, one 100 metres after leaving Berducedo, and another at 175, to La Mesa. For most of the day we advance over dirt tracks.
Berducedo (km. 0). Beginning of stage
Practical tips for this stretch: It is advisable to leave Berducedo well-prepared or make a stop in small village of La Mesa to stock up on water and some snacks. A long stretch with no intermediate places awaits us. Buen Camino!
We leave the town of Berducedo on a concrete track, uphill. Then, we go along a flat dirt track. We go down a right turn to a local road, which we follow on the left to the hamlet of La Mesa (km. 4.4).
By the same local track, we pass in front of the hostel and climb 150 meters of elevation, going around Pena de los Coriscos. From the peak, we descend to Buspol (km. 6.7), where next to a farm we find the Chapel of Santa Marina.
Flanking the gate, we start the descent to the River Navia basin, on a slope of scrubland and pine forest. After a few kilometres, we join a forest track that advances along a stretch that might seem flat, but is nothing of the sort.
On the left we find the detour that leads us to cross the Salime Reservoir (km. 10.3). A kilometre later, on a curve, we see a cortin, a circle-shaped stone wall that is used to protect beehives from bears (km. 6.9).
We continue to advance and pass by a crossroads. 400 metres later we take a detour to the left that allows us to enter a beautiful chestnut tree orchard (km. 12.5). After several turns on the pilgrim path, we go out onto the AS-14 road, where we continue towards the dam.
Before arriving at the reservoir we can make a stop at the Boca de la Ballena viewpoint, a balcony designed by Vaquero Turcios, which gives us magnificent views over the dam. Then we cross the Salime Reservoir (km. 14.4).
Embalse de Salime (km. 14,4).
Practical tips for this stretch: In the vicinity of Hotel Las Grandas you will find a bar. Buen Camino!
We follow the route of the AS-14 road. A kilometre later, we pass next to the Hotel Las Grandas, in the hamlet of Vistalegre (km. 15.5).
We continue 3.5 kilometres walking on the hard shoulder of the road until the detour to Penjamo. 200 metres after this, we leave the asphalt on the left (km. 18.9).
On a steep path, first, and on a bucolic path of forest, we then arrive at Grandas de Salime. We take the first detour on the right and enter Avenida de Ferreiro, passing next to the Ethnographic Museum. Finally, we arrive at the village’s Town Hall, where today’s stage ends.
Grandas de Salime (km. 21,2). End of stage
Practical tips for this stretch: A classic stage ending. In this village, the best that can be done is to research what life was like before the construction of the reservoir. See you tomorrow!
In Grandas de Salime you will find the necessary services to recover from today’s stage. In the town only the Ethnographic Museum and the Collegiate Church of El Salvador will demand our attention. The rest of the afternoon we can use to relax our legs and prepare to enter the apostle’s lands tomorrow.
Comments on the stage Berducedo – Grandas de Salime
Here are some tips for this desolate stage of the Camino Primitivo.
Precautions stage Berducedo – Grandas de Salime
Today’s stage is the antithesis of yesterday’s. The greatest difficulty is the long descent that sometimes goes through complicated stretches, even inaccessible, if it has rained. The knees will suffer especially with the prolonged descent, so it is recommended to use canes to mitigate the tension that our quadriceps will suffer.
On the other hand, the route is made through desolate environments, devoid of intermediate hamlets or villages. It is important to have water and food in the backpack to make the tour.
Food on the stage Berducedo – Grandas de Salime
Today, we advise you to try some of the following dishes in the area. It will be the last chance you have to taste the Asturian gastronomy, since tomorrow we will enter Galician lands.
- Galician Broth
- Asturian Stew
- Meat and Bean Stew
- River Navia Trout
- Roast Goat
- T-Bone Steak
- Oscos Cheese
- Shortbread from Grandes
- Gypsy arm
- Wine from the area
Services on the stage Berducedo – Grandas de Salime
Get to know the main healthcare services, cafes, ATMs and restaurants that are located on this stage of the Camino Primitivo.
Map from Berducedo to Grandas de Salime
Check the map with the route and locations that the stage runs through.
Profile stage Berducedo – Grandas de Salime
Find out about the profile, altitude and degree of difficulty on each section.
What to do on the stage Berducedo – Grandas de Salime
Below we provide you with information about places of interest on the sixth stage of the Camino Primitivo.
Capilla de Santa Marina
Santa Marina Chapel is located at the foot of the Camino Primitivo, next to a farm. It is an austere temple, made of stone and slate slabs. The chapel was probably part of an old pilgrim hospital located in the same place.
If we look at its belfry, we can appreciate that it is empty. The 14th-century bell, which it once housed, is no longer found here. You can see three colourful carvings of its altarpiece through the slits in the door.
Grandas de Salime
The village of Grandas de Salime has a population of almost 950 inhabitants. It is the last Asturian municipality before crossing the border into Galicia, due to this proximity, many of the residents of the town speak Galician.
In the village you can visit La Colegiata del Salvador and the Ethnographic Museum, one of the most important of the Principality of Asturias.
Colegiata del Salvador
La Colegiata del Salvador is located in the town of Grandas de Salime. The temple was erected in the 12th century, although the construction we can see today is the result of the reform carried out in the 18th century. Only the gargoyles in the baptismal font and the door are preserved from the original Romanesque temple.
The cover consists of a half-point arch, with particular ornamentation in the capitals of the columns. The capital on the left features a relief with the image of Maria and Isabel in The Visitation. The one on the right is decorated with two animals eating two acanthus leaves, which appear to Maria and San Gabriel in The Annunciation. In the other capital, you can observe two birds drinking from a bowl and acanthus leaves.
Its structure has a Latin cross plant and is topped by a tower. Inside, it hosts a Baroque altarpiece, made by Juan de Castro, from the mid-17th century.
Hours: From 11:00 to 14:00 and from 16:00 to 19:00. In the
July, August and September, a guided tour is held from 12:00 to 13:00.
Mass times: From 1st July to 31st August, working (20:00) and public holidays (13:00). From 1st September to 30th June, Wednesday and Friday (19:00) and public holidays (13:00).
The Ethnographic Museum in Grandas de Salimes is one of the most important in the Asturian community. The space was opened in 1989 and was devised by Jose Maria Navieras Escalar, known as Pepe El Ferreiro.
Originally, it was installed in the town hall basement, but since it is one of the most popular spaces in the town, it soon became small and was moved to the Rector’s House.
Its main purpose is to spread information about the rural world, both Asturias and Galicia. The museum has several rooms. The rectory house, the mansion and the miller’s house. In the latter space, temporary exhibitions are held, but inside you can visit permanently three flour mills, one of them is still in operation.