On the ninth stage of the Camino Primitivo, today at last, our legs can take a breather. Gone are the hard slopes, from today the route will be much smoother. You have passed the most complicated tests on this route of the Camino de Santiago. Congratulations!
Let’s continue on the Camino Primitivo!
On dirt and asphalt tracks, today we will reach the great walled city of Lugo. On today’s tour we will find few intermediate locations with services, the only one will be Castroverde.
If you are thinking of doing the Camino de Santiago from Oviedo, tell us what your plans are for the Camino de Santiago, and we will contact you to advise you on everything that you need.
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Itinerary stage Cádavo Baleira – Lugo
From Cadavo Baleira to Lugo we have a long journey of 30.5 kilometres. The route is completed on a surface in good condition, alternating stretches of asphalt and dirt paths. The terrain today is much simpler than in previous stages, with gentle slopes.
Cádavo Baleira (km. 0). Beginning of stage
Practical tips for this section: You will not find services on this section. It is important that you have breakfast before you leave Cadavo Baleira. Buen Camino!
We start the morning by going to the square behind the Casa de Concello, accessing it by the stairs. We leave on the right the detour to Perrelos and Touzon and take, on the left, the local track that goes up to Pradeda, in the Parish of San Pedro da Esperala (km. 1,1).
This track is transformed into a dirt path that, after a notorious climb, leads us to the LU-530 road, reaching the Alto da Vaqueriza (km. 2,2). We continue along a forest track, located to the right of the road, where we soon find the marker which indicates that 131.63 kilometres are left to reach the capital.
A kilometre later, we find another marker and enjoy splendid views of the Chaira, a plateau in Lugo where it already overlooks its capital. Quietly, enjoying the mountains of Cornedo, Fonteseca and Vilabade, we arrive next to the Chapel of Carmen (km. 5,3). From the temple, we go down on an asphalt track to Vilabade (km. 6.2), from the Castroverde concello (council), where we find the Church of Santa Maria.
Vilabade (km. 6,2).
Practical tips for this stretch: Castroverde is the only town with services on this stage, so it is advisable to make a stop to stock up and rest in a bar. Later you will only find places with vending machines. Buen Camino!
On a local road we return to the LU-530 road, at Castroverde (km. 8.6). We cross the town, following the LU-530, and turn left, passing next to the Church of Santiago. We also find the Fonte dos Nenos and the Town Hall right here.
After the visits, we take a path that runs among chestnut trees. After a junction, we descend again to LU-530. We cross it and turn left to go through a tunnel. On an asphalt track we go down to San Miguel do Camino, the parish church is located on our right (km. 9.9).
We continue through meadows and along carriage paths, which in the Galician community are called congostras. Approximately 550 metres after crossing the River Chamoso, a tributary of the Minho, we go out onto a road.
We continue, straight on, on the asphalt, to immediately leave it on the hard shoulder to the left and use another carriage path. We cross two more streams and reach the Church of Santo Tome, which welcomes us to the village of Souto de Torres (km. 12.5).
Souto de Torres (km. 6,2).
Practical tips for this stretch: Leaving Vila de Cas, where we will find some vending machines, we can take a detour of 800 metres that leads to Soutomerille and its church of San Salvador, a pre-Romanesque temple restored during the Baroque period. If the detour is taken, it is not necessary to walk back to the path, because from there it is possible to link with the official route again. Buen Camino!
We cross the village of Souto and, soon after, we cross the Rego do Angueiro. Shortly after, we go onto an asphalt track and pass next to the Meson de Fraias (km. 13.5).
On the right is the Church of the Parish of Santa Maria de Moreira. Following our walk, we cross two more villages in this parish, Nadela and Vila de Cas (km. 15).
When leaving Vila de Cas, we can deviate, 800 metres, to visit the Church of San Salvador de Soutomerille or continue the path. If we do not want to make the visit, we continue straight to a quarry and, past the houses in A Pallota (km. 16.5), we cross the River Romean.
We leave for LU-P-2917 road and climb up asphalt to Gondar (km. 17.6), in the Council of Lugo. We continue along the road, uphill, along the Cuesta Francesa, to the peak.
We start the descent and approximately 200 metres later, we leave the road on the right. By the Camino da Caciza we go to a track. We leave Bascuas on our right.
Next, we turn right and take a local track that advances parallel to the LU-530 road, located to our left. Later, we turn left, to take a forest track, at the foot of the LU-530, which, soon after, returns us to the road (km. 21.4).
We advance 1.4 kilometres along the road, passing next to the Carballido estate and the river of the same name. Past kilometre point 7, we take on the right a road that leads us to Manzoi and O Pondelo (km. 22.8).
O Pondelo (km. 22,8).
Practical tips for this stretch: It is just under 8 kilometres to go to complete the stage. Remember that the Camino de Santiago is a pilgrimage route that, while trying to reach the tomb of the apostle, its true meaning is in the journey. Enjoy every step. Buen Camino!
250 metres after the village, we leave the road to take a carriage path, next to where the Rego do Muino flows. The pilgrim path leads us to cross it, to reach As Casas da Vina (km. 24.5), in the Parish of Carballido.
At the exit of the village, we take a wide path. We pass next to a sign announcing the presence of a bar, 300 metres away, and immediately reach the substation in San Cibrao.
We cross, above, the A-6 motorway, which joins Madrid and A Coruna (km. 26.9). On a dirt track we cross the eastern road in the vicinity of O Carqueixo. Next, we arrive at Castelo (km. 28.4).
Castelo (km. 28,4).
Practical tips for this stretch: In Lugo we will enter through the Puerta de San Pedro. Notice the inscription on it: “This is where King Alfonso II the Chaste entered in the 9th century, inaugurating the first Camino de Santiago”. Buen Camino!
250 metres after the village, we leave the road to take a carriage path, next to where the Rego do Muino flows. The pilgrim path leads us to cross it, to reach As Casas da Vina (km. 24.5), in the Parish of Carballido.
We go down to the neighbourhood of Chanca and cross the River Rato. We go up Rua da Chanca, where we find the 104.241 kilometre marker, and pass under the railway lines.
Later, we cross the stairs in Fontinas and continue to climb the Carril das Flores, which begins next to the Praza do Camino Primitivo. We exit onto the Ronda de la Muralla and enter Lugo (km. 30.5) through the Puerta de San Pedro, on which a solemn inscription is to be found.
Lugo (km. 30,5). End of the stage.
Practical tips for this stretch: Lugo has a rich heritage and an excellent tapas culture. On the Camino Primitivo is the ideal place if the pilgrim wants to make a two-day stop, before continuing with the tour. See you tomorrow!
Lugo has an extended tapas culture, ideal for visiting the city between one place and another. In the centre, the surroundings of Praza do Campo and the Area of Campo Castelo are where you will find the best bars for this purpose.
It is impossible to be in Lugo and not visit its wall, since it is in very good condition, despite its almost 2,000 years. If the construction arouses your curiosity a lot, you can approach the Centro de Interpretación de la Muralla located in Praza do Campo. When you leave, you can take the chance to have some tapas in one of the bars that are located in its surroundings.
From Roman times, you can also visit the bridge that accesses Puerta Mina and some spas, located 900 metres from the centre. If between tapas, you want to make an outdoor stop, you can approach the Rosalia de Castro Park, located next to the walled enclosure.
Another must-see in the city is the Cathedral of Santa Maria. You can also visit the Parish Church of San Pedro.
To appreciate examples of civil architecture in Lugo, you can visit the Town Hall building or the Casa de los Mosaicos, with excellent paintings. Others you might be interested in, if you have time, are the Museo Provincial de Lugo and the Centro de Interpretacion del Camino Primitivo.
Comments stage Cádavo Baleira – Lugo
Here are some recommendations to get you to Lugo, without any problems.
Precautions stage Cádavo Baleira – Lugo
Today’s stage is much simpler than previous days. We couldn’t qualify it as flat, but its slopes are much more moderate. The most pronounced is the climb to the Alto de Vaqueriza, right at the beginning of the route.
Food on the stage Cádavo Baleira – Lugo
Lugo is an excellent place to discover many of those Galician dishes that you have not tried as yet. The tapas culture is also very present in the city. Here are some gastronomic suggestions.
- Octopus Galician-style
- Galician Broth
- Meat Stew
- Cod empanada
- Galician beef
- Arzua-Ulloa Cheese, San Simon Cheese
- Pancakes with honey
- Blood pancakes
- Pig’s ears
Services stage Cádavo Baleira – Lugo
Below we provide you with information about some places of interest that you will find on your tour to Lugo, as well as places that you can visit in the city.
Map stage Cádavo Baleira – Lugo
Check the map with the route and locations that the stage runs through.
Profile Cádavo Baleira – Lugo
Find out about the profile, altitude and degree of difficulty on each section.
What to do on the stage Cádavo Baleira – Lugo
Below we provide you with information about some places of interest that you will find on your tour to Lugo, as well as places that you can visit in the city.
Church of San Salvador de Soutomerille
The Church of San Salvador de Soutomerille is pre-Romanesque. In 1619 it underwent a major remodelling, of which the Baroque-style frontispiece is preserved. From the original construction, only a small vane has survived. The temple is covered with scriptures.
Church of Santa Maria or Castroverde Cathedral
The Church of Santa Maria de Castroverde is located in the place of Vilabade and dates from 1457. It is a Gothic temple, declared a National Monument, in 1979, and known among locals as the Cathedral of Castroverde.
In the past there was a Franciscan monastery next to the temple, but nothing has been preserved. The church has undergone numerous re-building projects, so in its structure, various architectural influences are appreciated.
The portico is Renaissance and many of its sculptures, Baroque. Of these, the image of Christ, from the 16th century, located in the sacristy, stands out. Also those of St. John the Baptist, St. Joseph and that of St. Mary Seated.
Useful information:
Mass times: Sundays and public holidays at 13:00.
Lugo
Lugo is a town of just over 7,500 inhabitants. It is one of the most important towns on the Camino Primitivo, along with Oviedo.
The city was founded in 15 BC, by Paulo Fabio Maximus, with the aim of linking the northwest of the Iberian Peninsula with the rest of the empire. At that time it was named Lucus Augusti. It immediately became an important city in the Galician community, becoming the capital of northern Gallaecia.
The main symbol of the city’s identity, even today, is the wall that was erected between the years 265 and 310, to protect itself from the barbaric invasions. Not in every city does the visitor have the opportunity to set foot on a wall with almost 2,000 years of history.
From Roman times, there is also the bridge of Lugo that gives access to the Puerta Mina to the wall. To find out more details about the construction of the wall and its impact on the development of Lugo, visitors can go to the Centro de Interpretación de la Muralla, found in the Plaza de Campo.
In the vicinity of the walled enclosure is the Rosalia de Castro Park, perfect for a break between visits. Another must-see in the city is the Cathedral of Santa Maria. If the visitor wishes, he can also approach the Parish Church of San Pedro.
Examples of civil architecture are the Town Hall building, La Casa de los Mosaicos, with excellent paintings. If you want to go deeper into the route of the Camino Primitivo, you can go to the Centro de Interpretacion of the Camino de Santiago, located on Calle Mino.
Other visits of interest are the Provincial Museum of Lugo and the Roman baths, located 900 metres from the city centre, next to the River Mino.
Muralla de Lugo
The roman walls of Lugo are a Roman fortification made of slate stone and granite. They were constructed between the years 265 and 310, to defend the city from barbaric invasions. Over history, however, it has undergone numerous repairs. Given its historical importance, in the 21st century, it was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
Its walls are 4 metres thick and in some points, they even exceed 7. The enclosure is 2,266 metres long and its height varies between 8 and 12 metres.
The wall currently has 10 gates. Santiago, San Pedro, Puerta Mina and Nueva are the oldest and belong to Roman times. The other five gates (San Fernando, The Station, Bishop Izquierdo, Bishop Aguirre and Bishop Odoario) were built in 1853. However, the most relevant accesses are that of the Odoario, the Puerta de Santiago and Postigo.
The Santiago gate was renovated throughout the 18th century to allow the passage of carriages, at which time the image of Santiago Matamoros was added. This entrance remained open at a time when the plague fell upon the city, thus allowing the evacuation of those affected.
Bishop Odoario’s gate was raised clandestinely during the Second Spanish Republic. However, it was, to a large extent, thanks to this construction that the wall was listed as a National Monument. From Porta Mina, it is worth noting that inside it hosts an exhibition hall, in which the history of the city during the Roman Empire is explained
The gate of San Pedro was known, in the Middle Ages, as the Gate of Sancti Petri or Puerta Toledana, since through it entered the city those merchants who came from Toledo. This access remained open until ten o’clock at night, while the rest were closed at nine o’clock.
This entrance is 3.7 metres wide and 4.8 metres high. Its structure features a half-barrel vault and a sash arch; and is surrounded by two turrets. Above it you can read the following inscription: “This is where King Alfonso II the Chaste entered in the 9th century, inaugurating the first Camino de Santiago”.
Originally the fortress had 85 semi-circular towers, of which 71 cubes and part of the La Mosqueira tower, which is located on the walled promenade, are all conserved.
Like many other constructions of this style, the wall is part of a much larger complex . It was formed by a moat and an intermediate space, known as intervallum. The moat, located parallel to the wall and away from the cubes, was four metres deep and its function was to prevent passage to Lugo.
One of the great mysteries of this fortification, which scholars of the subject have not yet managed to solve, is why some important neighbourhoods of the former Lucus Augusti were left outside the walled enclosure. Instead, uninhabited areas were protected.
Today, the wall has a busy promenade, known as the Adarve. This tour is travelled by locals when they enter the city. The promenade is accessed by a staircase of the wall.
Centro de Interpretación de la Muralla
The Wall Interpretation Centre in Lugo is located in the Plaza del Campo. In this space, models, audiovisuals and photographs about the construction of the walled enclosure are shown, as well as the implications the wall had in the urban design of the city.
Catedral de Santa María
The Cathedral of Santa Maria, in Lugo, began to be constructed in 1129. The temple combines various architectural styles: Romanesque, Baroque and Neoclassical.
The most symbolic element of the cathedral is the front of the north façade, from the 12th century. It is protected by a portico, from the 16th century, covered with a starred vault. The cover features three arches, a dust guard with half-pointed arches and a lintel made up of two lobes. The lintel is decorated with the image of the seated Pantocrator, under which hangs a capital in which the Last Supper is depicted.
The main façade is neoclassical in style, while the opposite is Romanesque. In the latter are the images of San Froilan, patron saint of the city, and San Capito, the first parish priest. This part of the church is presided over by the sculpture of faith with the virile, surrounded by the four evangelists.
The cathedral has a Latin cross-shaped plant and is composed of three naves, with chapels in the apse, organ and choir. The latter stands out for being the only one in the Galician community that has preserved the original central nave, from the 17th century.
Inside is the altarpiece of the main altar, formed by four carved pilasters, with bronze capitals. The altar is presided over by the Eternal Father and in the central part, you can see several images of angels holding marble curtains.
Of the chapels, the most representative is that of La virgen de los Ojos Grandes, Galician Baroque style. This is the work of Fernando de Casas Novoa and presents a Latin cross plant. The image of the Virgin, life-size, which can be visited in the chapel, is made of fine granite.
The Chapel of Pilar, formerly known as the Chapel of the Kings, was added between the 14th and 15th centuries. It preserves the tombs of the city nobles from that time and houses a neoclassical altarpiece. The image of the Virgin Mary guarded by San. Simon and San. Froilan is also found in this chapel.
The Chapel of St. Froilan is Renaissance style. In the central part, it has a carving of the Saint and a tomb, which could belong to the mother of the Holy One. Finally, it should be noted that the Chapel of St. Lucia is known for being a place of devotion for parishioners with visual problems.
Useful information:
Opening hours: Open daily (8:00 to 20:30).
Mass times: From 1st July to 31st August, workdays (8:00, 9:00, 9:30, 10:15, 11:00, 11:30, 12:00, 12:30, 13:00 and 20:00), eves (20:00) and public holidays (8:00, 9:00, 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 13:00, 19:00 and 20:00). From September 1st to June 30th, workdays (8:00, 8:30, 9:00, 9:30, 10:15, 11:00, 11:30, 12:00, 12:30, 13:00 and 20:00), eves (20:00) and public holidays (8:00, 9:00, 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 13:00, 19:00 and 20:00).
Admission: Free to the cathedral. 1 euro for the Diocesan Museum.
Casa de los mosaicos
The house known as Lugo’s Mosaic House corresponds to Casa Patricia, located on Rua Doutor Castro. The building was built between the 1st and 2nd centuries.
Wall paintings and mosaics can be seen on the site. Inside, it has an audio-visual exhibition of life in the Lower Empire.
Ayuntamiento
The Lugo Town Hall is housed in a Baroque-style building, built by the Galician architect Lucas Ferro, in 1738. The building was inaugurated in 1744. Later, in 1873, the clock tower was added. The property is a good example of Galician architecture, with a rich stone ornamentation based on plaques, pendentives and curls.
Termas romanas
The Roman baths are located on the left bank of Mino, about 900 metres from the centre of Lugo. The date of construction of these ancient thermal baths is not exactly known, but it is estimated that they could date back to the 1st and 2nd centuries. The site is listed as a National Historic Artistic Monument.
The space is divided into two zones. One is the Apoditeryum (or dressing room) with two adjoining rooms with niches on the walls. These were probably used so that people who came to the hot springs could store their clothes. The other area is a small room, which could have functioned as a hot bath. This was later converted into a chapel.
Useful information:
Hours: Open daily. Monday to Sunday (12:00 to 13:30 and from 16:00 to 18:00).
Entry: Free.
Parque Rosalía de Castro
Parque Rosalia de Castro is located in the immediate vicinity of the Lugo Wall. It is a natural space, designed in the 20th century. Originally, it was named Alfonso XIII Park.
This recreational space features gardens, trails, a lagoon and various fountains. In the western part of the park you can enjoy beautiful views over the river.
Iglesia parroquial de San Pedro
The Parish Church of San Pedro formerly hosted the Convent of San Francisco. There is evidence of the existence of this monastery from the middle of the 13th century. Although there is no evidence to confirm this, it is believed that the monastery was founded by Saint Francis on his pilgrimage to the apostle’s tomb.
Practical information:
Mass times: From 1st July to 31st August, workdays (9:00 and 19:00), eves (19:00) and public holidays (9:30, 11:00, 12:30 and 18:00). From 1st September to 30th June, workdays (9:00, 19:00 and 20:00), eves (19:00 and 20:00) and holidays (9:30, 11:00, 12:30, 18:00 and 20:00).
Centro de interpretación del Camino
The Camino de Lugo Interpretation Centre is located on Calle Mino, in the tourist office. The space offers the visitor information about all the variants of the Camino de Santiago, although it offers much more detailed information about the Camino Primitivo.
Practical information:
Hours: From July to August, it is open from Monday to Sunday (10:00 to 14:00 and from 16:00 to 20:00).
In September it is closed on Sundays, it is open from Monday to Saturday (10:00 to 14:00 and from 16:00 to 19:00).
Puente romano
The Roman bridge of Lugo dates from the first half of the 1st century. Its main function was to facilitate the crossing of the River Mino, on the current Calzada da Ponte, allowing access to the city. The road is in a zigzag form and takes you to the Mina Gate of the wall.
Originally, the bridge was seven metres wide, almost twice as wide as it is today. Its current length is 104 metres long. In 2014 it was decided to use the bridge exclusively for pedestrians.
Museo provincial de Lugo
The Lugo Provincial Museum was inaugurated in 1934, with the aim of protecting and disseminating the cultural heritage of the city. Originally, it was located in the Pazo de San Marcos, but was moved to the former Convent of San Francisco, due to the lack of space.
In 1962, the space was declared of Cultural Interest. The museum is distributed in various spaces. A refectory, from the 18th century, showing models of constructions in Lugo, and the kitchen, which houses traditional tools and furniture.
It also has the cloister, declared of Cultural Interest in 1931, which houses a collection of stone sculptures and sundials, among other elements. As well as a space for religious paintings and another that houses Roman mosaics.
Practical information:
Hours: Open daily. Monday to Friday (9:00 to 21:00), Saturday (10:30 to 14:00 and from 16:30 to 20:00) and Sundays and public holidays (from 11:00 to 14:00).
Entry: Free.
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