We hope that yesterday you enjoyed the day and took advantage to try all those things in the Asturian community that you had been waiting for. Today everything changes, gastronomy and signage. What does not change is the characteristic terrain on the Camino Primitivo path, with frequent slopes.
At this stage we will enter Galician lands, through the province of Lugo. At the Alto de Acebo we say goodbye to the Asturian lands that have accompanied our passage here. The day runs through rural and livestock areas, crossing numerous villages.
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Itinerary stage Grandas de Salime – Fonsagrada
21.9 kilometres separate Grandas de Salime from Fonsagrada. The route takes place in a rural environment in which we will have to face various slopes. The highlights are the Alto de Acebo and the final climb, up to Fonsagrada.
Grandas de Salime (km. 0). Beginning of stage
Practical tips for this section: In this section you will find various centres. In Cereixeira you will find bars to stop for breakfast, if you did not do it before leaving Grandes de Salime. Buen Camino!
We start the day from the Collegiate Church of San Salvador. We immediately cross the road and take the street where the Chapel of Carmen is located. At the next junction, we continue to the left and follow a grassy path, under an oak tree, next to the AS-28 road.
At the hamlet of A Farrapa (km. 1.2), we go out to the road. Later, we pass by the detour to Escanlares and Robeldo, which we ignore. Without deviating, we pass next to some dairy industries and past the curve we cross the road, to take a track that passes through Xuntacasa and leads us to Cereixeira (km. 3,2).
Leaving the village, we take another grassy path that, after various turns, passes by the la Esperanza Chapel (km. 4.5). On the right, there is the hamlet of Malneira. By a pavement track, which runs under an oak tree, we reach Castro (km. 5.5).
Castro (km. 5,5).
Practical tips for this stretch: The ascent to the Alto of Acebo begins on this section, but in relation to the previous stages, it is a stroll. Buen Camino!
Next to the town is the Castro of Chao Samartin. In the centre, we pass next to the town’s parish church and the Chao Samartin Hotel; and we cross a road to leave the village.
Again on the Camino, we leave Padraira to our left. Later we find at the foot of the pilgrim path the Chapel of San Lazaro (km. 7,1). After a few more minutes of walking, we return to the AS-28 road and cross Gestoselo (km. 7.9).
From this point, the ascent to the Alto de Acebo begins. We advance 2.2 kilometres further along the road and reach Penafonte, the last village centre of Asturias. At the entrance of the town, we leave the asphalt to visit the Church of Santa Maria de la Magdalena, next to which we find a fountain that will allow us to supply water for what’s left of the climb.
Peñafonte (km. 10,1).
Practical tips for this section: In this section we leave Asturias, it’s a pity that the exact point is not well signposted. Buen Camino!
On the Camino, we continue to climb the slope of Monte de Zarro. At first with a more pronounced elevation, but it immediately becomes easier. We go back to the AS-28 road and cross it, setting off for Bustelo de Camin.
Then, next to the access road, we open a gate and follow a path, to climb Monte da Curiscada. We cross another gate and complete the climb (km. 13).
Before our eyes, Fonsagrada appears, still 12 kilometres away. To the south, we see the Sierra de Piedra Apanadas. At an unmarked point on this section, we say goodbye to Asturias and enter Galician lands. We go down to the road, next to Venta de Acebo (km. 14.5), where we find the first Galician signal.
Venta del Acebo (km. 14,5).
Practical tips for this stretch: On this section you will begin to observe that the scallops are now pointing in another direction. That is to say that if until now the narrow part of the shell was the one indicating the direction, in Galicia it is just the opposite. Buen Camino!
From the centre we walk along a path full of holly bushes, which demonstrate the place-name. After a brief climb, we approach the LU-701 road and continue to advance parallel to it. We arrive in Cabreira (km. 16.5), the first place in Galicia, in the Parish of Monteseiro and the Concello (council) of Fonsagrada.
Staying true to the road’s parallel track, we pass by a fountain and continue to Fonfria (km. 18.6). At the last houses of the centre, we turn left and take a track, where we find a marker that announces that 165.990 kilometres are left to get to Santiago de Compostela.
On tracks, we advance along to Monte de Penoucos, to leave at Barbeitos (km. 20.2), and back to the LU-701 road. Already in the town, we cross the road and continue along a track that runs next to the edge of a pine forest. On this, we arrive in Silvela, from the Parish of San Martin de Suarna. We cross the LU-701 road again and reach the Chapel of Santa Barbara (km. 21.9).
Ermita de Santa Bárbara de Silvela (km. 21,9).
Practical tips for this section: Careful in this section, because at the fork you will find at Paradanova, you will see that in the detour that goes to A Pobra, someone has indicated that it leads to Fonsagrada. Keep in mind that you have to follow to the left of the road, going up to the Camino da Granxa. Buen Camino!
On a path that runs above the road we reach Paradanova (km. 24.4). Behind the Santa Cruz Chapel, we find a road fork.
A sign indicates that the road must be crossed, in the direction of A Pobra de Buron. The other points to the left, to San Martin de Suarna. It’s the latter we have to follow.
On a steep climb, we reach Camino da Granxa. Shortly thereafter, we reach the road that leads us to the town of Fonsagrada.
Fonsagrada (km. 26,3). End of stage.
Practical tips for this stretch: Today’s afternoon can be dedicated to discovering the pilgrim legends that revolve around the Fuente Santa that gives the town its name. Buen Camino!
In Fonsagrada you can visit the Ethnographic Museum and the Church of Santa Maria, located next to the Sacred Fountain, to which the villa owes its name.
Comments stage Grandas de Salime – Fonsagrada
Below are some tips for the seventh stage on the Camino Primitivo.
Precautions stage Grandas de Salime – Fonsagrada
Today’s stage faces some pronounced slopes. But if you completed the ascent to Puerto de Palo, you will have no trouble dealing with today’s.
The climb to the Alto del Acebo is done slowly, with smooth slopes, but it becomes somewhat boring. From Gestoselo, the slope is steep. The last climb of the day begins in Paradanova, the elevation that is exceeded here is greater than in the previous one.
At this stage, we enter Galicia and there is a change of signage. Unlike in Asturias, the open side of the shell is now the one that indicates the direction of the Jacobean path. However, you will also find yellow arrows that will help clarify it.
Food on the stage Grandas de Salime – Fonsagrada
On this day you will start to find in the bars and restaurants dishes typical of Galician cuisine. Here are some suggestions.
- Galician-style Octopus
- Perdiz, deer and wild boar
- Botillo (Stuffed pork intestine)
- Galician beef
- Celtic pig, a variety of pork
- Galician Stew and Galician broth
- Padron peppers
- Freixos (Pancakes)
- Mountain honey
- Cream Cake and Almonds from Fonsagrada
- Rosca de Campelo (Sponge Cake)
Services stage Grandas de Salime – Fonsagrada
Get to know the main healthcare services, cafes, ATMs and restaurants that are located on this stage of the Camino Primitivo.
Map from Berducedo to Grandas de Salime
Check the map with the route and locations that the stage runs through.
Profile stage Grandas de Salime – Fonsagrada
Find out about the profile, altitude and degree of difficulty on each section.
What to do on the stage Grandas de Salime – Fonsagrada
Throughout today’s stage, you will pass through various places of interest. Here’s some information about them.
Chapel of Carmen de Grandas
The Chapel of Carmen de Grandes can be found at the foot of the Camino Primitivo, leaving Grandes de Salime. It is a temple linked to the Casa de Linera.
Museo del Chao Samartín
The Chao Samartin Museum is located in Castro. It collects the findings made in the Bronze Age settlement, which is located in the vicinity of the town. It is estimated that the castro dates back to 800 BC.
Hours: Closed on Mondays. From June to September, it is open from Tuesday to Friday (11:00 to 13:00 and from 16:00 to 18:00), Saturdays and Sundays from 11:00 to 13:00 and 16:00 and 18:30). From October to May, Tuesday to Saturday (11:00 to 13:00 and from 16:00 to 17:30), Sundays and public holidays (11:30 to 13:30).
Guided tours of the Castro: From June to September, from Tuesday to Friday (from 13:00 to 17:00), Sundays and public holidays (13:30). From October to May, Tuesday to Saturday (13:00 to 17:30), Sundays and public holidays (13:30).
Admission: General (4€), children between 5 and 16 years old and over 65 (2.50 €), groups of more than 20 people (1.50€), children under 4 years and every Tuesday (free).
The municipality of A Fonsagrada belongs to the Galician province of Lugo. It is the municipality of Galicia with the greatest extension, 438 square kilometres and has almost 4,000 inhabitants.
The town is named after the Fons Sacrata fountain which is located in its centre, strongly related to legends of the pilgrim route. It is considered sacred because, it is said that milk emanated from it to feed a widow and her 3 children.
The village is located at 1,000 metres of altitude, so, in winter, it is common to see snow on its streets. In the village you can visit the Ethnographic Museum and the Church of Santa Maria.
The Ethnographic Museum is located on Calle Rosalia de Castro in Fonsagrada. The space was opened in 1984, through the initiative of a group of locals.
The museum space is headquartered in a three-storey building. The first is a collection of ethnography and traditional trades of the region. The second is intended for pieces related to Prehistory and archaeology. The top floor collects remains of castros and Roman mines. It also features a photo archive and a library.
Hours: Closed on Mondays. From 15th September to 14th June, it is open from Tuesday to Friday (12:00 to 14:00), Saturdays and Sundays (from 12:00 to 14:00 and from 17:00 to 18:00). From 15th June to 14th September, it is open from Tuesday to Sunday (12:00 to 14:00 and from 17:00 to 19:00).
Admission: General (1.50 €) and children under two years old (free).
Iglesia de Santa María
The Church of Santa Maria is located next to the Sacred Fountain in the town. It is a Baroque-style temple, composed of three naves, a bell tower and an atrium.