After yesterday’s tough stage it’s normal for you to find yourself somewhat tired today. The morning begins with spectacular views from O Cebreiro and that mysterious air that the fog that surrounds it gives the area. Take today’s route calmly and do not be hasty or rush yourself off to walk before enjoying the beautiful sunrise that O Cebreiro will give you. You deserve it!
Today’s stage is a smoother stage, necessary to regain strength after yesterday’s exertions. The path runs almost all in descent, except for the climb to Alto do Poio, where it reaches the highest point of the Camino Frances on its passage through Galicia.
We enter the lands of fog and drizzle, that of the mines that both the Romans yearned for and that of the Celtic Castros. A succession of small parishes (villages and hamlets), will accompany us throughout the day, as well as the annoying LU-633 road that will accompany us most of the day parallel to the pilgrim path.
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Itinerary stage O Cebreiro – Triacastela
Today’s itinerary runs through dirt tracks that cross the Sierra de O Courel and Os Ancares. Galicia welcomes us with valleys full of ash, holly, oaks and chestnut trees; And the pure air fills our lungs.
O Cebreiro (Km. 0). Beginning of stage
Practical tips for this section: Enjoy the sunrise before starting today’s stage. Not every day do we wake up in such a privileged location. Buen Camino!
We start today above the Pilgrims ‘ hostel. Taking a path that runs protected by the mountain vegetation. Along it, we climb a few metres above sea level, until reaching 1370 metres, the highest point of the Camino Frances on its passage through Galician lands.
From this point we start a descent to find a forest road (km. 1.5). The track leads to the foot of the road LU-633, where the first parish of the day awaits, and the Church of Santo Estevo de Liñares.
After the visit to the temple, we cross the road and take a path that runs close to the LU-633, surrounded by holly, beech and other Atlantic species. On the other side of the LU-633 rises a sculpture of a medieval pilgrim who is advancing against the wind. The sculpture is made in bronze and is the work of José María Acuña (km. 4.1).
The path follows the path of the LU-633 that will accompany us for much of today’s stage. We descend slightly to 1,205 metres. We go along a stretch that seems flat, but is not, and we arrive at the Hospital da Condesa, where we can visit the Church of San Xoán.
Hospital da Condesa (Km. 5,7)
Practical tips for this section: From this point, you will come into contact with the “Rubias Gallegas”, a type of cinnamon-coloured cow, much appreciated in the region for its meat. Buen Camino!
At this point on the way, a Jacobean landmark marks 145.5km. We leave the town, which has a certain cowboy air, and we continue along the road. Later, we take the detour to Sabugos and Temple. We immediately dismiss the asphalted stretch and take a path that leads us to Padornelo, where another church awaits us in honour of San Xoán.
At the exit of Padornelo, we face a brief, but tough climb up to the Alto do Poio, where there are a bar and an inn that allow us to recover our breath (km. 8.5). We continue along the LU-633 for an almost flat stretch to the next town: Fonfría, with its Church of San Xoán.
After crossing the locality, we return by the road to continue in the same dynamic until O Biduedo, almost two and a half kilometres away (km. 14.3).
O Biduedo (Km. 14,3)
Practical tips for this section: In this section, there are small urban areas, but in them, you will hardly find ay services. Buen Camino!
In this locality you can visit the Chapel of San Pedro, where the pilgrim if they wish, can seal their credentials. After O Biduedo the real descent begins.
There is a little less than seven kilometres to complete the stage and we still have to descend more than 500 metres. The path runs again next to the LU-633 but is separated from it to follow shortcuts and avoid the bends in the road.
From one of the pronounced curves of this section, we can see Mount Oribio, at an altitude of 1,443 metres. At the bottom of the valley, on the right side, we can see our destination today: Triacastela. But first, we’ll pass through Fillobal, Pasantes and Ramil.
After Fillobal we cross the road to continue descending along a wooded path. A few kilometres later, next to a small picnic area, we cross the LU-633 and enter into Pasantes (km. 18, 8). An elongated village with a chapel.
The trail continues to Ramil (km. 20.1) where a centenarian Chestnut tree is located on the edge of the road. This locality is almost attached to Triacastela, so soon we are in the centre of the population.
Triacastela (Km. 20,8). End of stage
Practical tips for this section: Triacastela is the ideal stage final for today’s route. It has some places to visit but it leaves time for rest and a good chat. See you tomorrow!
This small town offers all the services that pilgrims may need. On its streets, you can visit a windmill and the churches of Montalto, Santiago, Santa Maria de O Monte and the Chapel of Mamede. As well as La Casa de As Encrucilladas.
Comments stage O Cebreiro – Triacastela
Here are some tips for you to complete the stage without difficulty and to enjoy the gastronomy of the Os Ancares.
Precautions stage O Cebreiro – Triacastela
Today’s stage is not very long and helps you to recover strength after the ascent to O Cebreiro. The ascent to the Alto de Poio is the most difficult section of the day. For people with some type of disability, the climb can be a little problematic.
The LU-633 runs throughout the day next to us and on several occasions it is necessary to cross it, you have to pay attention to the traffic, sometimes, dense.
If it is winter and there is snow on the road, cyclists should follow the LU-633 along the entire stage.
Gastronomy stage O Cebreiro – Triacastela
Today’s route is waiting for us with typical products from the region of Os Ancares. Some of our suggestions are:
- Beef “Rubia Gallega”
- Zorza, which is the meat of the chorizo before being stuffed
- Raxo, marinated pork with paprika
- Lacón, thin slices of meat obtained from the front leg of the suckling pig and served with oil and paprika.
- Cocido – Galician Stew
- Homemade sweets typical of the region of Os Ancares
Services stage O Cebreiro – Triacastela
Consult the main health care services, cafes, ATMs, restaurants and are in this stage of the French Way.
Map stage O Cebreiro – Triacastela
Consult the map with the route, points and towns along the stage.
Profile stage O Cebreiro – Triacastela
Consult the profile of the stage: altitude and degree of difficulty of each section.
What to do stage O Cebreiro – Triacastela
Today we will cross some small urban areas with their respective churches, most of them in honour of San Xoán. Here, we explain the peculiarities of each one.
Liñares
Liñares is the first urban area that crosses the Pilgrim’s path after leaving the mythical O Cebreiro. It is a parish in the council of Pedrafita do Cebreiro. About 30 people live on its streets. In the Codex Calixtinus reference is made to this population as Linar de Rege.
Church of Santo Estevo
The Church of Santo Estevo is located in Liñares. The temple is of Romanesque style and its origin is medieval, 8th century. However, it was restored in 1963.
The temple is erected in honour of St. Stephen and its structure is similar to that of Santa María La Real in O Cebreiro. It consists of a single rectangular nave and a tower. Inside it has a baroque altarpiece.
Hospital da Condesa
Hospital da Condesa is a town dating back to the 9th century. Its origin revolves around the creation of a hospital founded there, by the Countess Doña Egilo. On its streets, you can visit the Church of San Xoán.
Chruch of Xoán do Hospital
The Church of San Xoán is located in the town of Hospital de Condesa. Its structure is similar to the Church of O Cebreiro.
Its structure consists of a single nave with a Latin cross floorplan. The building is made of masonry and has a three-storey tower, which is accessed by an outside staircase, covered by a dome.
Padornelo
Padornelo is a parish (hamlet) of the Council of Pedrafita do Cebreiro. on its streets live less than 70 people. In the town you can visit the Church of San Xoán.
Church of San Xoán de Padornelo
The Parish Church of San Xoán de Padorneo is a 15th-century temple. The construction is made of masonry and roofed by slabs.
Its structure is of a rectangular floorplan. The entrance is located on one side and is protected by a fence. Its bell tower is crowned by a triangular belfry. In the interior, there are several sculptures and a Baroque altarpiece from the 17th century.
Fonfría
Fonfría is a parish in the municipality of Pedrafita do Cebreiro. It has a population of 34 inhabitants. Here you can visit the Church of San Xoán.
Church of San Xoán de Fonfría
The Church of San Xoán de Fonfría was built in the 16th century, although it has been extensively reformed, the most significant is the one that occurred in 1964. The construction was made of stone and is covered with slate slabs.
The temple is formed by a rectangular nave. The sacristy is located next to one of the sides of the temple and Inside is an altarpiece with carvings.
O Biduedo
O Biduedo is a hamlet in the parish of Lamas do Biduedo and belongs to the municipality of Triacastela. The Camino Frances passes by its Chapel of San Pedro.
Chapel of San Pedro
The Chapel of San Pedro de O Biduedo is also known as the Birch Chapel. The temple has a façade topped with a belfry with a triangular pediment and its interior, decorated with flowers donated by the parishioners in the vicinity. The chapel has a large atrium, formed by three arches.
Fillobal, Pasantes y Ramil
They are three small villages that have almost no services and belong to the Triacastela Council. Ramil stands out for the presence of a centennial Chestnut tree, located next to the route of the Camino Frances.
Triacastela
Triacastela is a municipality located in the province of Lugo, in the Council of Sarria. The municipality has a population of 650 inhabitants. In the Codex Calixtinus the locality appears as “Triacastelle”, probably its name comes from the relationship that this villa has continued with various members of the nobility.
In the locality, you can visit a windmill and the churches of Montalto, Santiago and Santa Maria de O Monte, as well as the Mamede Chapel. Of its civil architecture, we should highlight La Casa de As Encrucillades.
Triacastela Mill
The Triacastela Mill is a small construction built upon the water flow. The mill, with a rectangular plan, is made of masonry and covered in a gabled roof by traditional slate. The function of the mill is to grind cereals.
Cova de Eirós
The Cave of Eirós is located in the vicinity of Mount Gandarón. This is the place where the remains of Neandertal Man were discovered. There is currently a fence that prevents your visit for security reasons.
Parish Church of Santalla
The Parish Church of Santalla is located in the town of Triacastela. The temple is of Romanesque origin, although from this period only the apse is preserved.
The building is divided into three bodies and its façade has a baroque door, with two arches inside. The construction is topped with a double-span belfry.
Inside it is a large altarpiece, in neoclassical style, dating back to the 19th century. On one of the sides, the sacristy is located.
Church of Santiago
The Church of Santiago de Triacastela was built in the 9th century. It is of Romanesque origin, which is reflected in its oldest elements since in the 18th century underwent many modifications. Originally the temple was dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, but then went on to pay homage to Santiago the Apostle.
Its structure consists of a rectangular nave with a gabled wooden roof. Nowadays, it preserves almost all of its Romanesque flooring, made in slate. The temple has a barrel vault over the central nave and a quarter of a sphere in the apse.
To the sides, windows are placed. The façade is dominated by the presence of a high tower with a square and neoclassical style.
The tower is made up of several parts. In the second part, you can see bas-reliefs from the three Castles of Triacastela and an altarpiece presided by Santiago the Apostle, Baroque style. The third part is adorned with small windows of semicircular arch design.
Practical information
Mass times: Weekdays and Vespers (18:00) and Holidays (13:00).
Chapel of San Mamede
The Chapel of San Mamede is located in Triacastela. Its structure consists of a single nave, divided into two staggered parts and covered by a slate roof. The construction is made of limestone and blockwork.
Church of Santa María de O Monte
The church of Santa Maria de O Monte is located in Triacastela. The temple consists of two bodies covered with cement and paint. The atrium is covered in a slate gabled roof and rests on one side of the wall that adjoins the cemetery.
Casa con escudo de As Encrucilladas
The Casa de as Encrucilladas is a traditional construction in Triacastela. The building has a rectangular floor and is made of masonry and covered in a double slated gabled roof. It has small rectangular holes that allow light access. we should highlight the shield on the main façade.
