The slopes on the Camino Primitivo do not give us any rest. After two days with steep ascents, in which our body is still adapting to the distance, today we have a stage with more climbs. Cheer up and don’t throw in the towel! The first few days are the hardest.
Today’s day begins with the climb to Porciles, with almost 400 metres of elevation. Then we will continue over an almost flat terrain, crossing many hamlets and villages, many of them without services, in a totally rural environment.
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Itinerary stage Salas – Tineo
The 20.2 kilometres on today’s stage, begin with a steep climb to Porciles. Then small undulations over the terrain await us. In various sections of the day, we will cross muddy areas, especially on rainy days.
Salas (km. 0). Beginning of stage
Practical tips for this stretch: The morning begins with a climb, but is done through a beautiful environment, very photogenic. Don’t be in a hurry to complete it and enjoy the scenery. Buen Camino!
We start the morning in the Plaza de la Campa, where yesterday we cluded the tour. We pass under the arch that links the Valdes-Salas Palace with the tower and, a few metres later, we continue along Calle Ondinas, which begins on our right.
Surrounded by fruit trees, we go along a pleasant path that runs along the River Nonaya. Gradually we gain height until we reach the Borra Bridge (km. 2.5) and then that of Carcabon (km. 3.3).
After this last bridge, we start a steep climb that leads to the N-634 road. Following the road track, we pass on a couple of occasions under the highway viaduct.
Next to a house, we leave the road to the left, to take a path uphill. This is transformed into a track that runs parallel to the highway, on which we complete the ascent, arriving at Porciles (km. 5.9), in the parish of Bodenaya.
Porciles (km. 5,9).
Practical tips for this stretch: In La Espina you will find a rest area called La Parada del Peregrino, in it you will find cold drinks and snacks. You can also seal the credential. Buen Camino!
Already on flat terrain, under a mountain range full of wind turbines, we continue to the neighbouring Bodenaya (km. 7.8), where we find a cross and the Church of Santa Maria. After this visit, we turn right, passing next to the village’s hostel.
We cross the N-634 road, and leave the village, to quickly reach La Espina (km. 8.9). After passing the village’s funeral parlour, we descend onto the road, passing beside the hostel, which once had a great tradition on the Camino de Santiago.
Leaving La Espina, at the roundabout, we continue on the right by a track that advances next to a small stone wall. Next, we reach La Pereda (km. 10), in the council of Tineo, where the Chapel of Cristo de los Afligidos is located.
La Pereda (km. 10).
Practical tips for this section: In Berudes, in a dell, we will find the most photographed mill on the whole the Camino Primitivo route. Don’t leave without taking a picture. Buen Camino!
Next to the chapel, we go down to the Fuente del Reconco, located in the neighbourhood of the same name, with excellent views. The pilgrim path crosses various hamlets and neighbourhoods in the parish of La Pereda: El Espin, Bedures (km. 12,2), and La Millariega. Shortly thereafter, we enter El Pedregal (km. 12.8).
We ascend to the AS-216 road and follow it to kilometre point 4, to, next to a cross, abandon it on the right. 100 metres then we turn left and advance for 4 kilometres along a stretch that is normally muddy. Probably with some mud on our shoes, we arrive at Santa Eulalia (km. 16.9).
The Camino de Santiago does not go up to the parish, but just before the village cemetery, it deviates to the right, to continue ascending. Leaving on our left the village of Zarracin, we cross the River Ferroiro.
About half a kilometre later, we find the first houses in San Roque (km. 19). We border the football pitch and arrive at Campo de San Roque, where we find a chapel that pays homage to the saint. We continue along Paseo de los Frailes and, before reaching the pilgrim statue, we turn left and enter Tineo.
Tineo (km. 20,2). End of stage.
Practical tips for this stretch: In this quiet town you will find all kinds of services and a few places to visit. See you tomorrow!
In the town of Tineo, the main place of interest is the Church of San Pedro and the Museum of Sacred Art, located inside. You can also approach the Palacio de Meras and the Valentin Alba Museum, located inside. To enter to see the collection, you have to arrange the visit.
Comments stage Salas – Tineo
Here are some tips for the third stage of the Camino Primitivo.
Precautions stage Salas – Tineo
At the beginning of the stage the ascent to Porciles takes place, a stretch of approximately 6 kilometres that faces almost 400 metres of elevation. The climb does not become very hard thanks to the idyllic environment through which it is made, full of oaks and chestnut trees, with the company of the River Nonaya. It is best to take it easy and enjoy the scenery that accompanies you on the tour.
On the Bodenaya plain, the wind may blow hard, especially until La Esquina. At this point, cyclists should take special care.
On various sections of today’s stage, it is very possible to advance along tracks and muddy paths, especially between Porciles and Santa Eulalia. In these sections, both cyclists and pilgrims on foot, should be cautious to avoid slipping.
Food on the stage Salas – Tineo
During the third stage of the Camino Primitivo, you will be able to taste some of the following dishes from the region.
- Chosco (sliced pork loin)
- Berzas (wild cabbage) stew
- Black puddings
- Game meat: wild boar, roe deer and deer
- Pork and its derivatives: andoyas, butietso and tsinguaniza
- Amagueso (Cider and chestnuts)
- Natas vaqueiras (cream cake)
- Almond cake
Services on the stage Salas – Tineo
Get to know the main healthcare services, cafes, ATMs and restaurants that are located on this stage of the Camino Primitivo.
Map stage Salas – Tineo
Check the map with the route and locations that the stage runs through.
Profile stage Salas – Tineo
Find out about the profile, altitude and degree of difficulty on each section.
What to do on the stage Salas – Tineo
Below we provide you with information about some points of interest that you will find on today’s tour.
Chapel of Santo Cristo de los Afligidos
The Chapel of the Holy Christ of the Afflicted is located in the neighbourhood of Humilladero de la Pereda, in the parish of Tineo. The temple was founded by the order of Benedictine monks of St. John the Baptist of Corias. Formerly a hospital for pilgrims, the place has a long tradition on the Camino de Santiago.
Tineo is the second largest municipality in Asturias, with 536 square kilometres. However, there are just under 11,000 inhabitants, spread over 44 parishes.
The town has a long pilgrim tradition. This fact is largely due to The fact that King Alfonso IX ruled that the Camino de Santiago pass through this village, punishing all the pilgrims who deviated from it.
The Church of San Pedro and the Museum of Sacred Art, which are located in it, stand out in the village of Tineo. Also of interest is the Palacio de Meras, where the Valentin Alba Museum is located, but the visit must be previously arranged.
Iglesia de San Pedro
The Church of San Pedro, in Tineo, was built in the late 12th century. It formerly functioned as a Franciscan convent. From the original monastery, the old cloister door and part of the church stand out. Of the cloister and the chapter hall that once stood in the place, there is currently no trace.
In the 17th century several reforms were carried out, in which the tower was added and the naves were refurbished. In 1880, the Monastery of San Francisco became a parish church.
Its structure consists of a single nave. The temple features a western cover, which features three pointed arches reinforced in six columns, with capitals decorated with animal and plant motifs.
The interior of the church houses the headquarters of the Museum of Sacred Art in the town. This space houses various pieces and works of other churches in the municipality, acquired over many years, by the parish priest Jose Fernandez Villamil. The collection features medieval and baroque carvings; and a Calvary of Romanesque origin. It also has a rich collection of gold works.
Palacio de Merás
The Palace of Meras was built in 1525 in the centre of Tineo. The construction stands out for the symmetry of its façade, with two large towers on each side and a beautiful coat of arms topping the building. Today, after a thorough renovation, the building houses a 4-star hotel.
Museo El Ferreiro
Museo El Ferreiro, also known as Museo Valentin Alba, is located in the Hotel Palacio de Meras. Inside it houses an extensive collection of photographs, paintings and antiques, as well as works by local artists.
In total this space brings together a collection of more than 1,000 pieces, all owned by Valentin Alba. The highlights include a collection of watches and of firearms.
Hours: Only scheduled visits.